Hiya,
So this post has been a long time coming...last week I had it all written out and was just about to email it and post it on the blog and suddenly the post vanished, just disappeared from my notes section on my ipad...almost smashed it to pieces!! Am I the only one that happens to?

Anyways enough ranting let's get straight to this segment of Ask Dabs :) I like to share some mails here for those who might be asking the same questions and facing the same dilemmas, hope my replies help.

Mail 1- From Sheyi.

Hello Dabs,

Happy new year to ya!!!! I know its almost the quarter of the year already but since this is our first contact this year.  I might as well.

And congrats on your store relocation would surely visit when next I'm in lag.

O well so here goes my hair dilema since i last saw you. My ends have been giving me serious nightmares. Shedding has become a major issue for me as well. I've been steaming quite often and moisturising my scalp as well since i've got dandruff itchy scalp problem as well.

The body of the hair is still nice and healthy. It's just the ends dats my major issue as my hair goal dis yr is length length and more length.

I'll attach a few pics

Regards,
Sheyi.

Hiya,
Thanks for mailing in. I can see the ends from the pictures and my concern is that you might be dealing with split ends that need to be trimmed off before they snap off...when last did you trim your ends...split ends cannot be mended so if you don't get regular trims i.e every 8 to 12 weeks, what happens is that the split ends ride up the hair shaft, ends break off and you are left with uneven thinner ends.

So think about trimming your hair with sharp hair shears, it will take some length away but you will be left with healthier ends that can be retained and grow longer.

Cheers,
Dabs

Note( not in the mail sent)-Update- Sheyi admitted that she hadn't trimmed her ends in ages and will get them trimmed ASAP!


Mail 2- From Stella

Hello Dabs. Good morning. How are you enjoying your vacation? Bring back lots of goodies oo. Lol.
I'm sorry for adding to your worries but I'm damn near close to hysteria. I'm a contender for the six-inches challenge but for the last month,my hair has been shedding like crazy. I admit I don't moisturize and seal everyday but I at least spray with glycerine + water + oils daily,sleep most days with my satin cap,always with my satin pillowcase, I work in sections; pre-poo,shampoo,deep condition, tea rinse, moisturize and seal weekly and still the hair keeps shedding! I try to eat well and I take multivitamins daily.

I think it all started this day when I did a protein treatment and circumstances prevented me from washing off for about four hours. Please help. I didn't want to bother you and decided to work with the tips you provided on your blog but I seem to be failing woefully and I'm at my wits end.
I'm sorry for this long epistle. I hope to hear from you. Ibadan sends you her love.

P.S. I tried the coconut milk + banana thingy and made the Same mistake you made with your son. I tasted it. Lawd Almighty!!! I understand why he kept coming back for more. Hahaha. My love to the little cutie.


Hi Stella,
Apologies for my late reply, hahaha you tried that hair treat? Lol sooo yum! The shedding could be caused by various reasons...your body might be telling you to slow down as stress can cause excess shedding, your hair could be coming off the resting phase to the shedding phase(there are three phases of growth), you might be using the wrong comb or combing technique and most importantly your hair might be suffering from protein overload....I dare say the most important part of a healthy hair regimen is deep conditioning treatments specifically targeted at an issue..the struggle to always stay balanced with these treatments is tricky so I always advice that they should be alternated, moisture this weekend, protein the next,,,any kind of imbalance might lead to the shedding you are currently facing.

Take a step back and review your regimen, you might find the culprit.

Regards,
Dabs

Note( not in the mail sent)- P.S I love talking 'Hair' so there is no mail I get about hair that will 'Add to my worries' :)


Mail 3- From Dr. Faith.

Hi Dabs,
I hope you're enjoying your holiday. I'd like to say a big thank you for helping black women like me realise our hair potentials and inspiring us to reach our hair goals. I faithfully follow your blog and Lesley of Freshlengths because your blogs are the ones I can relate to the most.
In the past year I've come to notice gray hair popping up in different areas of my head. I was so bemused when it became a more regular occurrence. I'm blaming it on Lagos stress! Anyway in the past I'd have run down to the salon and slapped some dye on but since I'm on a hair journey I wouldn't dare for fear of losing all my progress.
I've been looking into using Henna and Indigo but I don't want to end up with green hair if it goes wrong.
Would you be able to shed more light on hair dying without harsh chemicals.
Thanks in anticipation of your response.

Regards,
Dr Faith Umukoro.


Hi Dr. Faith,
Thanks for reading my blog...I am enjoying the holiday thanks. Apologies for the late reply.
Chemical dyes are a no no because they penetrate into the hair shaft causing the hair cuticles to be raised up and exposed to drying and breakage, non- chemical dyes on the other hand deposit the color on the hair shaft without lifting it, this prevents undue dryness that leads to breakage...Henna is great because it not only colors but nourishes and strengthens the hair as it has protein qualities, I'm guessing the indigo added is so you don't get a red tint but a darker tint which is fine. I would advice soaking the powders over night so the color is released before you apply to your hair also applying a little heat will speed up the processing, so use a shower cap and stay under some kind of dryer.

Hope my reply helps....will love to see before and after pics.

Cheers,
Dabs

Note( not in the mail sent)-P.S I am always sooooo humbled when people say things like; 'Thank you for making black women like me realize our hair potentials' to this I say no thank you for caring enough to even read what I have to say on this blog, thank you for going a step further to try the advise out and for you that has told all your friends and family about this blog....thank you!! It makes it all worthwhile!!

I will be doing an Easter Bonanza on the blog in the spirit of my thanks and as a precursor of what to expect at the JUNE SALON DAY OUT(yep it's happening again this year and I am striving to make it bigger and better!), this blog is my first love and I am truly thankful to you all for the massive love and support each passing year!!


Xxx
Dabs

Hiya,
How's everyone doing? Please if you are one of the ladies that entered the 6 inches of growth challenge at the start of the year, please start sending in your pictures by Dec. 1st. 

A winner will be announced at the PH Hair Rehabs with Dabs event on Sunday the 28th of Dec. The winner's before and after picture will enlarged and serve as inspiration to all the hairlistas present, the winner will also be called live and congratulated so please send a phone number to reach you by if you entered, you don't have to be resident in Nigeria...we will call you wherever you are if you are a winner, 2 other runner ups will be announced that day too, their pictures will be put up and they will be called and congratulated, as announced before, the winner gets $100 cash prize and a goody bag, the other two get goody bags filled with yummy hair goodies....now who is pumped!!! Again send me the entries from the 1st of Dec!! Thankssss


Now to my topic. You ladies know I love a good concoction, but there is nothing as unnecessary as a concoction without a purpose!! Some dear ladies just starting out email with mails like this,  'Dabs I do those your treats oh, I mix eggs, mayonnaise, henna, honey, ACV, tea, clay, all together and just put on my hair, yet it STILL BREAKS!*arghhhhh*sobbbingggggg*Dab's come and be my hair savior, save me from this mess I am in*wailingggg*'. Lol! While I do sympathize with them, I also tell them that they are passing through the desperately finding a quick fix for your hair phase.  It's a phase every hairlista must pass through...

When I passed through that phase, everything and I mean EVERYTHING I heard that was a remedy for hair growth I was willing to try without finding out the reason why it was a remedy in the first place! Now I know better and while I am willing to try most things, I always take my time to put them in their appropriate class and for hair treatments these classes are; protein or conditioning/moisture. 

This week I will share with you simple protein treatments that can be done and instantly your hair will feel stronger, this will be especially helpful to ladies who want straight to the point treats, no experimentation and also new hairlistas...They consist of one main protein component, a lighter moisture component to keep the balance and prevent protein overload and oils to seal in the treatment.

Protein treatment 1- An Egg + Conditioner(without hydrolized protein or keratin) + oils- ceramide or protein free oils (olive, castor, sweet almond etc)- This treatment is quite simple, the egg provides all the protein and lecithin which both help to strengthen and moisturize the hair, the yolk should be the main component used from the egg on your hair because it acts as a serum, helping the hair to reflect light for an appearance of shiny hair.  Make sure to rinse the hair with cold to luke warm water to avoid the egg yolks cooking in your hair!!


Protein treatment two- Yoghurt + Aloe Vera juice/gel + oils-Yoghurt is packed with protein, it  also contains lactic acid; an alpha hydroxy acid which strips the outer layer of the hairs’ keratin, helping to improve absorption of other nutritious products like the Aloe vera gel/juice which is a great hair conditioner and the oils which will help lock the nutrients in.

Protein treatment 3- Coconut milk + Conditioner + oil- Coconuts are packed with vitamins like vitamin E, Vitamins B and C, they also have healthy fats and have the ability to be absorbed by the hair strands building the strands from within, mix it with a protein free conditioner and some oils for a good strengthening hair treatment.

Protein treatment 4- Mayonnaise + Honey + Oils- Mayonnaise is pretty much eggs and vegetable oil so its a great alternative to using actual eggs if you dread the idea of an egg on your hair, mixing it with Honey will give it the moisture balance and the oils will seal everything in.
 
Protein treatment 5- Gelatin + A Banana +Henna+ Oils-Gelatin is a form of hydrolized protein which tend to be absorbed by the hair strands quicker and better, mix it up with a banana, banana's are packed with nutrients like potassuim, vitamins E, B and C. Henna powder is also a form of protein that can be used on its own or combined in this way, great for filling missing hair shaft gaps and strengthening strands, add the oils to once again seal the treatment in.

Once you have applied any of the treatments, cover your head with a steam cap and go under a steamer or rely on your body heat for about an hour plus then either rinse out or wash out once with a sulphate free shampoo preferably.

Finally, if you don't like to concoct at all, I like how they grouped different protein conditioners in this article into, light protein treatments, reconstructors, deep penetrating protein and protein packs: Check on it and see where your conditioner falls under.http://www.curlynikki.com/2012/11/the-right-protein-treatment-for-your.html

That's all for now ladies, will be updating you on the goodies I got from the recently concluded Naturals In the City Meet up in my next post...

Xxx
Dabs

Hiya,
How's everyone doing? The 1st of December is around the corner, the 6 inches of growth challenge entries should start pouring in from then, can't wait to see the BEFORE and AFTERS!!!

Now to the topic at hand, I put up this picture on instagram;

Hiya Ladies, 
How's everyone doing?! Hope well. 
The other day I was moisturizing the back of my hair and felt a single strand knot(SSK) and was reminded of one of those Saturdays at the hub, there must have been about 5 or 6 NHCG readers that day, we were just chatting on and on about HAIR!lol then a lady called Chinedu(hey girl,where have you been!) brought up the issue of single strand knots, she was like how crazy is it that a hair strand just decides it is going to knot itself into the tightest, smallest knot making untangling impossible and forcing you to cut it off! 


As crazy as that sounds, that's what our hair does!! The curlier the hair, the more prone to SSKs it is that's why naturalistas tend to be the main bearers of this cross. But we relaxed/texlaxed folk deal with it also especially like I said if your hair is curlier or more textured and that's why I've noticed them more in the back area of my hair which is the kinkier, curlier fully texlaxed part of my hair.

So how do we deal with these darn knots....well we have to know the main cause so we can avoid aiding and abetting(Lawyer lingo :)

Dryness/Friction- think of your hair like a sponge or towel fibers, the drier it is the more likely it is to curl/ scrunch up and just a little friction, from clothes, the air, your hands can make it curl up so much it just knots and tangles up- as much as I'm trying to reason through this explanation, I'm as confused as you probably are as to why the knots are so perfect...but try it, rub your hand against a towel that has threads sticking out, you'll see knots form after sometime and you didn't knot them, the dryness and friction did! 

So now we know the cause what can we do to prevent them;

SSK's usually happen around the last 4/3 inches of your hair strand so it will help if you take the extra pains to reapply a sealant like oils or Shea butter to those very ends especially if you are prone to dryness.


Avoid allowing your hair deal with any kind of friction like rubbing against clothes, leaving it out in rough air, hand in air syndrome( note to self), all these cause even more dryness that lead to SSKs.

Protect your hair while you sleep with a (Savvy Chic luxury satin sleep cap-*wide grin*). I think the fastest way to get SSK's is from sleeping! All the rubbing that takes place as you toss and turn on your regular cotton sheets without your hair covered will do you no good, by the morning, even if you moisturized and sealed before bedtime, your hair will be back to square 1- dry tangled hair! Especially if you sleep with air conditioning.

Finally, get your ends trimmed, those untrimmed mostly split ends are the biggest culprits for SSKs, I got an inch of my ends trimmed off yesterday to prevent SSKs because as I stated, once you get those knots, you have no choice but to cut your hair off at the knot and as tempting as it will be, please don't just snag them off with your fingers, use hair cutting shears and snip right above the knot.

With that this post is complete and will hopefully help those out there dealing with this issue, remember, the culprits are dryness and friction.

In other news, I texlaxed my hair and will be coming at you ladies with an update post tomorrow, I've had a major revelation and can't believe I'm just noticing it!! Have a great weekend ladies, for those in Lagos, stop by the hub let's gist hair and everything in between :), I'll be there for a few hours today!


Xxx
Dabs

Hiya,
How's everyone doing?!! Well I am good, been missing in action on the blogsphere for a while but I've decided to come back to my first love- this blog!! I have a series of interesting things lined up so stay tuned ladies!!!

Now down to business!! You remember at the start of the year when I announced the 6 inches of growth challenge and 32 ladies sent in their pics;

Check them out; HERE, HERE AND HERE



So now that we have roughly 4 months to go, I'd like to know; HOW'S IT GOING?

1. Who has retained length?
2. Did you try any extreme measures like the inversion method?
3. Who has suffered a set back?
4. Did anyone get a major cut?
5. How many trims have you had all year long?
6. Is anyone having an inverted V?
7. Did anyone color their hair?
8.  What has been your go to protective style?

Now let me go ahead and answer the questions I asked;

1. Yes I have retained at least 3 inches since the challenge began, my ends are not great though but I am holding up...

2. Since the last time I blogged about it, I haven't tried the inversion method but I think I need to be on it, I however have been exercising and most of the exercise involves staying on a mat and flipping my head around as I venture to do Pilates and I feel that has helped with aiding blood flow in my scalp region and promoting growth.

3. I have not exactly suffered a set back but my back hair has refused to catch up with the rest of my hair which has been the case since I started my hair journey, I have also noticed my temples get thin once I stop using black castor oil for a few weeks so you best believe I've been using it diligently!!

4. Nope I have not gotten a major cut, been tempted anytime I see my back hair but after trying to even things out three times in the past three years, I now know its genetics and will just keep babying the back till it catches up.


5. I've trimmed my hair 6 times this year :) Let's call it dusting...when I look at my ends and see split ends, I go under bright light preferably my laptop light and seek and destroy with sharp hair shears...trimming should be less than 1/2 an inch of hair so you don't loose length except your hair needs a hair cut. There's never any need to hold on to split ends.

6. The inverted V is trying to rare its ugly head but im just doing the best I can to avoid it :(


7. This year, I've experimented with color more than ever since I started my hair journey but its had nothing to do with my own hair, I've used crotchet extensions and clip ins to achieve the desired looks (spy my instagram) and they have worked great...using hair color especially those lighter colors that lift the hair shaft rather than deposit on it(like Henna) are a no-no because they exposure your hair to undue dryness and breakage. So if you must indulge I recommend crotchet extensions, clip ins or wigs.

8. As for protective styling, what will my hair be without them...this year its been crotchet extensions done at the hub from the Senegalese twists to marley hair, if you follow me on instagram you'd already know how much I love them, I also have been bunning as usual, tucking those ends away so they don't rub on my clothes and dry out. Remember, with our hair its all about MOISTURE MOISTURE MOISTURE then PROTEIN but MOISTURE is usually paramount!!

And with that, I'd like to know your answers, please comment below, let's compare notes as we race to the finish line!!

The winner will win $100 cash or $100 worth of products (their choice), the winner will also be featured in the Savvy & Chic hair/beauty magazine...there are also goody bags up for grabs Y'all so take these last 4 months seriously, give it your best shot and you just might be walking away with the star prize!!!

Happy growing!!

Xxx
Dabs

Hiya,
How's everyone doing? I have gotten quite a few entries for the 6 Inches of growth 2014 Challenge but I WANT MORE!!! We can do this, enter your starting picture by sending me a mail with the subject 6 INCHES CHALLENGE and you can win $100 worth of the best brands of hair products.

This post is all about getting there, I want to get there and I know you want to get there so together we have to constantly be aware of all we need to do to retain that growth. Like I always say, your hair is constantly growing at the roots, constantly but the reason it seems like its been the same length all your life is you have been unable to stretch it beyond its bare minimal limit!! Its like sugar...have you ever watched them make candy?

Simple sugar goes from looking like this;




Who Knew Sugar had it in it to become so large, so intricate and beautiful but yet so fragile it can break and crumble down to the pieces it was formed from with any slight aggression like a strong tug or adverse condition like heat, the sugar will simply melt away!

Think about it, isn't our hair just like sugar. The longer and more stretched it gets, the more fragile it becomes, the harder to manage it becomes but the more beautiful it becomes when you get the hang of things and you start to see the reward as your ends start to pull away from your scalp!!

''So how is it going to happen for me this 2014, Dabs?'' I am sure that's what's on your mind... well I am here to simply reiterate these tried and tested tips. By the time you have read through this blog from when I started in 2011 till now, you will realize that the process to longer healthy hair is and has remained the same, if you look through other hair blogs again you will realize its the same process and it can be summed up into these few words; GET YOUR HAIR IN A ROUTINE!! What I and other hair bloggers call a hair regimen!

You will not have long hair in 2014 if your hair is not in a routine, just like toddlers, your hair begs to be routinized, it thrives when its routinized. It wants to know that every Saturday it will get pampered with fresh clean water, a nice mild shampoo or a conditioner that will keep it conditioned and soft. It wants to know that it will be tucked away for just two weeks and allowed to breath fresh air soon after, get some protein and be strong again!!

Your hair craves your attention...I always have to constantly remind myself that I am on a mission to long, healthy hair. Just yesterday I saw a friend in the cutest weave I have seen in a long time, she looked like a million bucks, I was sooo tempted to go get a pack and get my hair all weaved up but I had to put the breaks on because I know my hair can't take it and that's just me. It will be so much stress on it since I have not sewn on a weave in about 4 years, it will be so out of routine that I'm sure I will loose so much hair and regret it...but as I mentioned, that's me, since I want to try the hairstyle, I did my research and there are other ways for me to have the weave on without sewing it. I think it will be absolutely fine if you decide that in 2014 your routine will be putting in weaves every 6 weeks or on the 8th week of your relaxer stretch or just for 2 weeks. that's fine as long as you know to deep condition and do protein treatments if your hair likes those ( the only way to find out is to try it at least once) and as long as you are considering the impact your decision has on your hair.

Brings me to my next point. In 2014 be willing to experiment. It just comes with the territory and it doesn't have to be expensive. You need to be willing to try different techniques, products and hair recipes till you find what clicks, especially if you are just starting your hair journey. It takes at least a year before you start having staples...don't be committed especially if what you are committed to is not working.This is the one time you are allowed to be a girl about town! LOL Don't be committed to hair product brands, a hair stylist, even my blog- LOL!! Committed in this context means don't get stuck... your hair is dry and breaking, do your research on this blog, on other blogs, try out what we are saying, try different products, techniques and see which advice/product works the best....gone are the days when you use the same brand for all your hair needs...now if you find a brand that gives your hair all it needs then of course you are in luck, please stick to it ( but I strongly doubt that will happen).


For experienced hair journeyers ( people like me who have been purposefully taking care of their hair with the aim to make it grow longer and healthier for say at least 2 years), this year might be the year to stream line!! I must confess I get excited when a new product catches my attention- I start to imagine it will be the answer to all my hair needs but after the excitement comes the reality check, I literally have a conversation in my head; 'Dabs look at the ingredients, how is this product different from your other 6 bottles of hair moisturizers from different brands...' Then I drop it! Except I see that the ingredient list contains something my hair needs I don't pick up a new bottle of a hair staple I already have that works for me and I think if experience hair journeyers have such conversations there will be a lot less product junkies in the world-LOL.

Finally, in my earlier illustration of sugar and its ability to stretch, the one factor I left out was WATER. Sugar can only stretch in syrup form and to make syrup, you need to add water! In 2014, your hair is NOTHING without water! LOL ( I am the queen of dramatic expressions, pardon me) Your hair will need water internally ( drink more water daily- note to self) and externally. Naturals this point is particularly for you- you will need water to keep those knots at bay, have water handy in spritz form, through hair treatments and in your hair moisturizer which should be water based. My dear sisters, make water your friend this year and you are bound to retain length.


With these few points I have scratched the surface of our hair growth game plan for 2014, my next post will be breaking down the basic 2014 hair needs; tools, techniques etc. I do realize that there are more newbies than oldies and I am here for you!! Unfortunately, the Salon day out for January cannot happen because of the Savvy & Chic Hair Beauty Hub Launch. But hopefully I can make it up to everyone in February. Till then, I am going to make sure my hair does not turn grey because of all the work that has to be done before the Launch...Thanks for all the support ladies, please share your new year hair tips below, let's help each other!!!

Xxx
Dabs


*Photo Credits;here